The room is stylishly furnished with an emphasis on dark wood and muted earthy tones. The bar is separated from the dining section by a slatted partition and there's also a comfortable, airy deck out the front that is covered and protected from the elements by drop-down blinds.

Nigel Kilvington has been in hospitality for decades as the co-owner of Friday's and the creator and owner of Hotel Bravo and Monsoon in Fortitude Valley. He is a consummate professional who understands the need for change and renewal especially when you have a loyal following.

His latest transformation, done in conjunction with his son Jeremy and daughter Anna, is the morphing of the Pan-Asian Monsoon into Bravo Bar B Que, a celebration of char-grilling, marinades and sides.

The menu offers a small selection of starters – green chilli chicken spring rolls, which are delicious, as are warm duck pancakes. Flour-dusted calamari, Moreton Bay oysters and pork ribs with green apple and calvados are other options.

Four mighty spring rolls arrive rested and ready for consumption with a spicy little chilli glaze on the side. Inside is soft and gently Thai-spiced with hints of coconut and coriander all encased in a golden crunch.

The duck pancakes arrive deconstructed – wafer-thin rice pancakes are warm as is the pot of duck ragout scented with hoisin. Thin batons of cucumber and red chilli and a tangle of shallots add the flavour, freshness and crunch. And both are hearty serves – four plump spring rolls and five duck pancakes.

Mains are divided up into their produce categories such as beef, lamb, game, poultry, pork and seafood and come with your choice of two side dishes from the 14-strong list. Potato and leek mash, hand-cut chips with lemon salt and aioli, barbecued zucchini, capsicum and eggplant, rocket with pumpkin fetta and pine nuts are a few examples and you also get to choose a sauce.

There are six steaks all noting provenance in the beef section – grain-fed rump in two sizes, a wagyu rib fillet, sirloin and OP rib both on the bone and a couple of eye fillets. Prices for a 200g steak begin at $24 and range to $45 for the wagyu.

The 300g sirloin seemed like great value for $25 and I jumped at it with some cheddar-glazed broccoli, cauliflower and bacon gratin and an avocado and grape tomato salad dressed with walnut oil. Cooked to a perfect medium rare, the steak was full of flavour meaning that I hardly touched my chimichurri sauce although it was aromatic and coriander-redolent.

If pork is your thing you have two choices – a Sichuan pepper-crusted cutlet or slice of pork belly, poached in masterstock, infused with soy, ginger and cardamon and finished on the barbecue so that a crunchy brown crust forms and all remaining fat is rendered. Tender and packed with spicy aromas, this was one good version of a perhaps over-exposed ingredient.

Flash-fried coconut bananas with palm sugar caramel and pandanus ice cream tricked us. I expected the caramel to be super sweet but it was the pandanus ice cream that made the teeth ache. The bananas were great as was the slightly salty and very moreish caramel but we didn't love the ice cream.

The wine list covers all the bases and then some. There's a strong selection of ANZ pinot noirs but you can also cruise the wine room adjacent where you'll find smaller producers and quirky labels among a wide range of well-known premium producers. Add $5 to the retail cost and it will be served to you at your table.

This is a very professional operation but it is also relaxed and ambient and delivers great value for money in very pleasant surrounds.